The Middle Ages in Western Europe are often subdivided into three intervals. This includes an early period (sometimes called the "Dark Ages", at least from the fifth to eighth centuries) of shifting polities, a relatively low level of economic activity, and successful incursions by non-Christian peoples. Substantial areas of northern Europe remained outside Christian influence until the 11th century or later; these areas also became crusading venues during the expansionist High Middle Ages. During the Middle Ages, fashion was highly influenced by the reigning monarchs. Only the wealthy could dress in fashionable clothes. This period in fashion was dominated by natural formed tunics of varying lengths and breeches with soft sole footwear.

The middle period (the High Middle Ages) follows, a time of developed institutions of lordship and vassalage, castle-building and mounted warfare, and reviving urban and commercial life. The High Middle Ages were characterized by the urbanization of Europe, military expansion, and intellectual revival that historians identify between the 11th century and the end of the 13th century. Northern Crusades and the advance of Christian kingdoms and military orders into previously pagan regions in the Baltic and Finnic northeast brought the forced assimilation of numerous native peoples to the European entity. The Crusades probably had the greatest influence on Medieval Fashion; importing fine silks, satins, damasks, brocades, and velvets from the Far East. This fashion era was based on newly available materials and the beginings of a merchant class.

The last span is a later period of growing royal power, the rise of commercial interests, and weakening customary ties of dependence, especially after the 14th century plague. Sumptuary Laws passed by King Edward III restricted ordinary peoples’ daily dress. Only royalty were allowed to wear cloth of gold and purple silk; expensive veils were banned for lower class women and only the wives or daughters of nobles were allowed to wear velvet, satin sable or ermine.

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